Kinsale & Travel in Ireland

Must See Places in Ireland: The Rock of Cashel

Ireland is our adopted home, and as many expats before us, we have come to love its history interwoven with the sheer beauty of the land as much, if not more, than those who were lucky enough to be born here. We reinvented our lives more than five years ago now, and we still delight in the short day trip out of Kinsale where we love to visit other historic views of Ireland. High on our list of places to go in Ireland is the Rock of Cashel. This article is one of a series on "must see places in Ireland" and is written for those staying in our short term let in Kinsale, or others considering accommodations in Kinsale or places to stay in Kinsale.

About an hour north of Cork by motorway (along the M8 to Dublin), the Rock of Cashel is in the top ten for stunning photo opportunities as the ruins of the medieval monastery sits high on the hill overlooking a long valley and the small town of Cashel nestled at its base. Its ability to overlook the entire surrounding countryside is testimony to the desire for safety in its original builders, the location allowing them not only to be closer to God but also to see any hostile forces a long way off.

The photographer will want to capture three types of shots: looking up at the Rock and the ruins from a distance on the plain, looking down at other monastic ruins from the top, and of course the many exquisite views of the ruins themselves.

After paying the small admission fee (and if you will be in Ireland long we recommend that you purchase a historic pass) you will be treated to a few rooms of relics from the site preserved from the elements by being brought indoors. These include an excellent example of a Celtic Cross as well as a female figure which some consider a Sheela na Gig. Walking to your right as you exit that display you can enter another small building for a short documentary on the site and its history.

We disagree about the female form inside the visitors area as a Sheela na Gig, but for those with keen eyes there is one on the side of one of the buildings at the Rock of Cashel. For those unfamiliar with these arcane erotic female figures, they were most often carved in the sides of buildings (most often churches) and are believed to have been seen as a ward against evil, although of course no one will ever know for certain if this is true. Hundreds exist in Ireland and the UK, although many more were struck off of their buildings as they were seen as profane.

To find the Sheela on the Rock of Cashel turn right out of the visitors display area and proceed past all of the buildings to the last building on the right. You will be overlooking the footpath that brought you to the entrance. Look carefully at all the far stones, those at the far corner of the building from where you stand and you will find a carved female form on a row above your head. She is sideways to the building rather than standing as is more often the case.

Whether your visit to the Rock of Cashel is an easy day trip out of Kinsale, or a stop off on your way from Kinsale to Dublin, we recommend it for the visitor and Irish person alike. Slainte'

Must See Places in Ireland: Newgrange and Knowth

Image via Wikipedia

We came to live in Ireland over five years ago, reinventing our life completely by moving from the United States to Ireland. We delight in the historic views of Ireland, but none more so than Newgrange and Knowth. These two megalithic tombs predate the stones at Stonehenge by 2000 years, making them one of the oldest sites opened to the public in the world. While not exactly a day trip out of Kinsale, as are most of the "must see places in Ireland" which we write about in these articles, most of our visitors to the Kinsale apartment traveled to Dublin. We highly recommend that anyone near the Dublin area take an extra day to see Newgrange and Knowth as they rate highest on our list of places to go in Ireland and everyone should see them when traveling in Ireland

A relatively easy drive from Dublin if driving on the M1 motorway. North and then the second exit after the toll. The signs will say Donore and Bru na Boinne (which is also the name of the visitor center where you will leave for the tombs). Go to the village of Donore and follow the signs for Newgrange, the visitor center is 2 km past the village on the right-hand side. You park in the car park and then go into the visitor center itself, where you will be able to get tickets according to the times the buses are leaving. No one is allowed directly to the sites, and we have found this a particularly well-run way to preserve both the ancient sites and the sanity of their neighbors. Bus Eireann also operate a bus service between the visitor center and Drogheda, which allows you to catch other buses into Dublin city center.

Built 5000 years ago, circa 3102- 2900 BC, Newgrange is a megalithic passage tomb whose inside roof has never fallen in the 5000 years of its history. The outside has been reconstructed to the best guess of archaeologists, determining what they thought it looked like from the remains of the rocks found at the site prior to the reconstruction. The passage and chamber are illuminated by the sun rise at winter solstice, and every year there is a lottery for visitors who would be able to come back to see the once a year event. 100 places are awarded, but people would have to have a high tolerance for claustrophobia as the interior of the tomb is very small.

Knowth is in many ways more spectacular because of the carvings on so many of the exterior stones and the ability to go up on top of the tomb and imagine what it was like when people lived there. Probably constructed about the same time as Newgrange, Knowth has two passages with entrances on opposite sides. Also a world heritage site, when seen together the two tombs leave visitors with an understanding that the "primitive" world was not so primitive. For anyone born and raised in the United States, as we were, it is a rare treat to stand in the place where the graffiti on the wall is older than almost anything you ever saw in your own country. Slainte'

Must See Places in Ireland: Kinsale

It's been over five years ago now that we reinvented our life by moving from Colorado in the United States to Kinsale,Co. Cork Ireland. While it's not easy to relocate halfway around the world, we believe it was the best possible thing we could have done for our lives. Like many ex-pats we are perhaps more in love with our adopted home than people would be who have grown up here. Ireland is full of historic sites, and Kinsale has several of them. While there are many places to go in Ireland, we believe Kinsale to have so many charming nuances that everyone should stay here, at least a few days. This article is a series about the "must see places in Ireland," and is meant for people traveling in Ireland, whether just visiting or those who have lived here a lifetime.

Kinsale is a medieval village combined with a yachting community, and it has all the great features of both. Part of the reason we chose to move here is its cosmopolitan nature while snuggled in a small village with historical significance. A little over 600 years ago, Kinsale was the site of a major battle between English troops and the Spanish Armada who had been recruited by the Irish in their struggle to stop the English occupation of their country. Because of its location at the estuary of the Bandon River and the sea, Kinsale grew up with the importance of water transport until the 18th century. Kinsale reinvented itself in the 1970s to embrace tourism as a major portion of the economy, and with that, came the refurbishment of the older buildings and the emphasis on Kinsale as the cuisine capital of Ireland.

Sights

There are three major historical sites in Kinsale or within a short walk out of town: Charles Fort, James Fort, and Desmond Castle

The Irish were not successful at the battle of Kinsale in 1601 and the English responded after the battle by building two forts, both well worth seeing for entirely different reasons. Charles Fort dominates the western side of the river estuary and the visitor can get there by taking a lovely walk by the water which then winds its way through Summercove and onto the fort. Full of historic content, the fort is well worth an hour or more of walking around and seeing its various buildings while enjoying the views. Charles Fort was inhabited by English soldiers until 1922 when they pulled out of Ireland. Hippies in the 1960s made it their home and now finally, due to the diligence of the Office of Public Works, it is being restored and is now the site of art shows and musical performances.

James Fort is our favorite walk with the dogs. You head out of town keeping the water to your left, go over the bridge, and then back down the road again with the water on your left until you reach the Dock pub. Signs direct you onto the beach, and at the far end you head up a narrow pathway which opens onto a large green expanse. The fort can be reached by heading on the footpath to the top of the hill and looking for the gap in the hedge rows that drops down beyond it to a path that continues to the right. In the 5+ years that we have lived here the OPW has done much to improve the fort, although it is only open to the public during history week in August. Nevertheless, the entire hillside is worth seeing. Continuing around the top of the hill and then following a pathway with hedgerows on both sides you to send to a circular stone structure that overlooks the river. There are two places one on the Kinsale side and one on the seaside where visitors can go down to the rocks and sea, and some of the best photos of the area can be taken from here.

Desmond Castle was built in 1500 and is considered an excellent example of an urban tower house. Billed as a customs house for the times it consists of three levels of structure with storehouses at the back. Desmond Castle also served as a French prison in 18th century, an Ordnance house or center of the national survey, and work house during the great famine between 1845 in 1852. It now is an international museum of wine and tells the story of the Irish Winegeese, the Irish people who are now involved with the making of wine around the world.

Shopping and Food

Kinsale is also the place where visitors can easily spend an afternoon or two meandering through the charming shops and picking up clothing and gifts. Hamish Hawkin, and Granny's Bottom Drawer are two of our favorites because of their quality and unusual merchandise.

Likewise, Kinsale is the cuisine capital of Ireland and no matter what kind of food you fancy it will be a restaurant able to give it to you. Rather remarkable for a town this size, many restaurants are five star quality and deserve notice. Max's Wine Bar, Crackpots, the Blue Haven, Fishy Fishy and the White House each serve a different kind of venue and all are excellent. If you just want a quick cup of coffee or cappuccino perhaps with lunch we recommend Tom's Bakery, The Lemon Tree, the Blue Haven or Cucina's.

The best value for the most interesting food, day or night, will be found from April to December at Diva Boutique Café in Ballinspittle. If you are traveling out of Kinsale towards Garrettstown Beach or on to to Timoleague (a trip that is the topic of another article in this series) the café will be on your right just as you make the turn into Ballinspittle. If you go to Diva for dinner you may bring your own bottle of wine to accompany your meal.

There are also many excellent pubs in town, frequently with traditional music venues, jazz in the follow, or other types of entertainment. Any visitor looking for the traditional look and feel of an Irish pub should be sure to check out the Tap Tavern. Across the street and down a little to the left from our apartment at number two distillery, and on the same side of the street of St. Multose Church, the Tap is the home for the Kinsale rampart players theater group and the place from which the famous Ghost Tour begins.

Kinsale is a fabulous place to spend a few days at home base taking day trips out to see other interesting sites in the area. The signature book at our apartment is filled with great stories and comments, testimonials, from people who have found Kinsale to be a highlight of their trip to Ireland. Slainte'

Must See Places in Ireland: Cork City

Image via Wikipedia

We reinvented our life by moving to Ireland over five years ago. While we strategically plopped ourselves in the small charming town of Kinsale, we could not live here if we did not have the urban environment of Cork city so close by. The second-largest city in Ireland, Cork was voted one of the top 10 places to travel in the world by Lonely Planet in 2010. There are many things to see and do with Cork city and it is worth at least a day trip for any traveler staying in Kinsale. Cork city offers some interesting perspectives as well as historic views of Ireland, and therefore makes our "must see places" in Ireland list for all people traveling in Ireland.

Anyone staying in Kinsale will just take the main road out of town (R600) past the international airport, through the large Kinsale roundabout, and on to city center. We find that the city is easier to navigate by foot then by car. Therefore, it is our recommendation that as you are traveling towards the city center you stay to the left, which at a stoplight will force you to make a left turn. Continue forward to the next light where you will run into the T junction at the river. Make a left and then a quick right and stay in the left-hand lane as you run (for what would be known in the US as a block or two) along the River on your right. Turn right over the bridge, but do so from the left-hand lane (I know it seems weird but the right-hand lane is required to turn, and the left-hand lane puts you into a left-hand turn lane at the end of the bridge, where you want to be). Turn left at the light onto a street that curves around and directly after that curves you will find a public car park on your left that has the best parking rates in town. The tourist office is right across the street from the parking and they will help you sort out what else you want to see.

We recommend a hop on hop off bus tour of Cork city. The stops that we think are the most interesting include the Butter Museum and the Shandon church, the Gaol (jail), and St. Finbars Cathedral. The Butter Museum especially will be of interest because it explains so much of how Ireland moved from being a provincial country to a substantial player in the European Union in just a few short decades. Irish cheese and dairy produce are significant in the world market and how that came that came to be true if the story of the butter Museum.

Our personal favorite place to see and to eat is the English market. And oldest indoor market in Europe it has been running consecutively since 1788, running in the center of the area surrounding surrounded by shops and busy Cork Streets. As soon as you enter the market you know you have moved into a modern environment reminiscent of older times and places. Our favorites are the Farm Gate Café and Restaurant which overlooks the aisle with the organic foods, coffee vendor, the wine merchant and the fish aisle. We make a stop there to pick up delicacies not available in Kinsale, or to grab a bite for lunch.

You will find Cork city to be an incredibly lovely mix of things in a small urban setting between two waterways. It enjoys the hustle and bustle of an urban downtown area and is a not to be missed experience at Christmas because it enjoys consistent patronage in this day and age when much retail has moved away from city centers. If you are traveling in Ireland at St. Patrick's day you will find the Cork parade charming and great fun. If you were here in the summer, you will find the streets very entertaining with pretty consistent work from buskers of all kinds. In short, no matter when you travel through Ireland, Cork city is worth some of your time. If you're staying in Kinsale, it's just a short 45 minute drive up the road, and offers all the necessities found in any urban environment, surrounded by historical charm. Slainte'

Must See Places in Ireland: Drombeg

Ever since we came to live in Ireland, over five years ago, reinventing our life from the United States to Europe we have enjoyed seeing the historic views of Ireland. Of all the places to go in Ireland, that or a day trip out of Kinsale we probably take people to Drombeg circle the most. This makes this stone circle one of our "must see places" in Ireland and one that we recommend to anyone who is traveling in Ireland.

About an hour outside of Kinsale, the visitor is recommended to take R600 the south of town, across the bridge, and on through Ballinspittle, Coolmain, and Timoleague (the subjects of other must-see places articles) and into Clonakilty where the road merges with N71. You can enjoy the relative fast pace of driving on N71 through to Rosscarbery, where you will see the Celtic Ross Hotel on your right. Slow down a bit, as you will make the next left turn after going over a stone bridge on the road. There are many signposts on the column there, and at least one of them used to be Drombeg circle. You are now on R597, but like many Irish roads you may or may not be any sign indicating that fact. Continue between 4 and 5 km and watch for a sign for Drombeg pointing left. This puts you on a single-track road, and many times, I have been very thankful I have not met someone coming the other way. After a short distance you will see a metal bar over at entrance to a small car park where you want to pull in. After getting out of your car, take the footpath at the far end of the car park that runs off to the left and it will direct you to the circle.

Originally there were 17 closely spaced stones spanning about 29 feet in diameter of which 13 survived. While there are over 300 standing stone remnants in County Cork, Drombeg is the largest and most complete, due to archaeological work that was undertaken in the 1950s. As is true with many prehistoric structures the midpoint of the recombinant stone was set in lying with the winter solstice sunset which would be viewed looking through the notch in the distance hills. While some sites such as Newgrange (the topic of another one of our must-see in Ireland articles) enjoy absolutely perfect alignment, Drombeg's view of solstice is said to be good, but not precise. Be sure to look for the cup and ring marks on top of the recombinant stone, as these are indicative of prehistoric art found all over the world.

Drombeg is more than just a stone circle, although that in and of itself is worth the visit. It also features the ruins of two rounds stonewalls huts dating back to before the fifth century A.D. The signs at the site will explain which were the houses and how the cooking took place, but the remains are typical of those found throughout the Celtic regions up as far north as the Orkney Islands in Scotland. Stone is very difficult to carbon date but it is believed that this circle was built between 150 BC and one 130 AD.

Coming from a country where nothing is older than 200 years, with even the early Anasazi cliff dwellings from our homeland in Colorado only go back 1000 years, it is remarkable to stand in a place that has remained for two or three times as long as that. Of course no one knows for sure exactly what the use was of the stone circles, but it is clear that people work very hard to put them in place as the rocks often had to traverse long distances to be placed where they are now found. This one had a pot in the middle with someone's remains, and many of the archaeological sites are also burial grounds.

We recommend stopping and seeing Drombeg for anyone traveling in County Cork, or on a day trip out of Kinsale. Visitors leave feeling as though you have stood on a place that reminds you of the mysteries of the universe. We know you will enjoy it. Slainte'